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Chanel J12 Moonphase: the moon with or without diamonds...

May 19, 2014

To celebrate ten years of the J12 white ceramic, Chanel has unveiled this morning in Paris, in lounges in the place Vendôme, a beautiful version of its iconic J12: J12 Moonphase with a 38 mm (with or without diamonds) case allowing a mechanical automatic calibre (base Dubois-Depraz) showing the phases of moon's poetic and original way.

Thirteen years ago, was born the famous Chanel J12 watch all of wearing black ceramic. Three years later, Chanel dared a small revolution in watchmaking industry high range with the arrival of a new J12 ceramic high-tech white this time. This watch, perfect for the black version and who initially had no vocation to remain in catalog, will soon prevail among 'bestseller' interlaced 'C' brand and settle permanently in the watch collections of Chanel.

Ten years after imposing white in the Galaxy of watchmaking, the J12 goes this year even further. After featuring chrono or dual-time functions, it now turns to heaven... Up there, at the end bottom of the space, in the heart of a swarm of comets to the Lunar ORB. As if the key was this time to perpetuate forever the unalterable beauty of the dreamlike whiteness of the nights of full moon. The idea is no shortage of daring, even less of poetry. It would no doubt seduced Mademoiselle Chanel whose fascination with the stars has never been a mystery.

Indisputable star female of horological complications, moon phase, as its name suggests, is a complex mechanism to display the different lunations: new moon, first quarter, full moon and last quarter. However, unlike readable classic moon phases in a window, those of the J12 Moonphase watch are displayed on a disk in aventurine of glittery deep blue as a summer night. Positioned at six o'clock, it is decorated with the main four lunations and equipped with a small serpentine polished steel needle that indicates the current moon phase.

Note also the indication of the date (on flange) through a central hand of which the end is not reminiscent of the poetic form of a Crescent Moon. Dressed diamonds or high-tech ceramic, the J12 Moonphase watch bezel is refined to provide a large opening the dial with both satin and guillochées finishes within the purest traditions of watchmaking.

The Parmigiani Fleurier Swiss watch manufacture has unveiled a very attractive time of driver with function flyback with push-buttons on the left of the box. box in titanium and white gold (41 mm / waterproof 30 meters) that welcomes in its midst a mechanical automatic calibre 'House' and offers on its blue bicompax dial a date trailing at six o'clock. A timepiece that pays tribute to the world of Bugatti, and especially to the fireball model.

Shortly after his presentation at the salon de l'Automobile in Paris in 1935 by Ettore Bugatti, this single copy will occur from the surface of the Earth leaving behind him a picture, some sketches, and the evocation of a singular body cream color of Mint.

We cannot forget on the other hand, the material used in its preparation that had created a sensation this year there: an alloy of magnesium known as the Elektron, nickname given sometimes at this incredibly light innovative car and yet resistance such that it could be bumpy.

The fireball car is distinguished by the rivet the crossing point at the back. It was he who binds the bodywork and bypasses the impossibility of welding magnesium; It is he who gives the car its unique character, its appearance 'streamline' fluid and futuristic. Therefore, this backbone which was covered on the watch and were chosen to reflect specifically on the four horns of the piece. The profile of these horns is unchanged, according to the codes of the brand, but it is their surface which is riveted, thus symbolizing the resourcefulness of Jean Bugatti and the technical prowess that gave life to the car 80 years ago.

The complication of the "fly-back" is a specialty of aerospace enabling the holder to stop, reset and reset his watch in a single press. In accordance with the race car it represents, the Bugatti fireball timepiece is equipped with the fly-back module which has the characteristic to be postponed on 180 ° for better ease of use (it is undeniable!). The buttons are more perceivable, accessible rather than the index and thumb because they are located at 8 and 10: 00 instead of find at 2 and 4 h as required by the standard. Finer than the other Chronographs of the brand, the unit Bugatti fireball was re-examined in his profile, more slender, more air, with mesmerizing curves of the car.

Whenever Parmigiani Fleurier embarks on the design of a new shows Bugatti, the factory La chaux-de-Fonds Les Artisans housings prepares to be put to the challenge... Casings Artisans have therefore imagined the ingenious solution of manufacturer the housing with a gap at the level of its base (thus giving the amplitude to perform all the necessary qualitative finishes), and then to hide this gap by means of a ring "decor" that ensures the Hermeticism of the piece. This titanium ring allowed to vary the textures and colors of the room though it made possible a perfect finish job. The parallel is not innocent with the rivet of the car which originally allowed to circumvent the difficulty of weld and eventually constitute the aesthetic interest first of the fireball.

On the dial, the blue Abyss is the domain of excellence Quadrance and dress up, the watchmaking manufactory specialized in cadrannerie. This tint is obtained by immersing the dial in a galvanic bath whose conditions are extremely sensitive. To the infinite depths of the dial are superimposed bright red needles that echo the logo red and black Bugatti at six o'clock. This contrast is reflected in the wristband Hermes which is grained sapphire blue calfskin and the slice takes over bright red glistened on the dial. The loop is finally, fully redesigned to symbolize a car grille, so that the DNA of the Bugatti brand surrounds the wrist from all angles.

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